This summer sees the arrival into WS stores of Naked & Famous denim.
Naked & Famous are renowned for using Japanese denim while producing entirely in Canada.
What is unique about Naked and Famous is this company specialise in using raw selvedge denim, - no prewashing or distressing. Each pair of jeans is made to age naturally over time developing its own character. The also use innovative methods to create interesting, blended denims in various weights and finishes.
Raw Japanese Denim
Raw Denim Jeans have the unique ability to conform to you, the wearer. As you wear your jeans, they will crease and mould to your body, fade at points of strain, and wear and tear according to how you live your life, making your jeans that much more personal and unique.
Selvedge Denim is made using vintage low-speed looms called shuttle looms. A small wooden shuttle containing the weft yarns weaves the fabric as it is “shuttled” back and forth along the loom. On each pass, the shuttle seals the edge of the fabric creating a “self edge”, earning the name selvedge denim. Shuttle looms are slower, narrower, and require the skill of master artisans to operate. The end result is a denim with a hand-woven feel that cannot be mass produced.
Rope Dying is the core reason why Japanese raw denim is so highly praised for its fading properties. The process is done on impressively tall machines that extend up to the 2nd floor of the factory. Warp yarns are suspended from the top of the machine and sent down to be dipped in a bath of indigo waiting below. After each dip, the yarn travels all the way back up, allowing the dye to oxidize and adhere to the cotton yarn. This process is repeated along the machine multiple times to obtain the desired shade of indigo. What’s key is that because the yarns continuously travel up and down this long machine, and are never simply left in a large vat, the dye does not completely saturate the core of the yarn. Instead, only the outer layer is dyed, and the core remains white.
When producing raw material for denim, fabric mills develop fabrics by selecting yarns, indigo shades and weights. Denim is universally measured by ounces.
Naked & Famous have outlined denim weights in detail:
5-6oz: Featherweight
The lightest weight denim available. Thin and comfortable, the perfect weight denim for hot climates and summer weather.
7-9oz: Lightweight
Light enough for the spring and summer, yet heavy enough for the fall. Multi season jeans that are comfortable right off the bat.
10-13oz: Standard Weight
The most common weight used to make jeans. Perfect for all seasons with a proper balance of durability and comfort.
14-16oz: Midweight
Heavier than your average denim, and quite rigid to start. These jeans usually require a few weeks to break in.
17-21oz: Heavyweight
Made for hardwearing, these jeans can handle just about anything you throw at them. These jeans will produce distinct high contrast wear patterns.
22oz +: Super Heavyweight
It’s like wearing a cardboard box shaped like pants. You must be willing to go through pain and suffering to conquer these jeans.
32oz: World’s Heaviest Jeans
Guaranteed uncomfortable. Courtesy of Naked & Famous Denim.
How to Care for Raw Denim
Some denim enthusiasts wear their jeans for months (and sometimes years!) on end without washing in order to engrave their lifestyle into their jeans.
Instead of creating a worn and washed look at a laundry facility, raw denim will get there over time, reflecting how you wear and care for them. It’s a long term commitment, a longer lasting and more personal garment.
The easiest way to wash your jeans is in cold water, inside-out and hung to dry.
Alternatively, to maintain the natural character of denim, some enthusiasts prefer the soak method:
1. Turn the jeans inside out, fasten the front buttons or zipper (this is to avoid abrasion to the denim while washing).
2. Soak the jeans in a tub using cold water to minimize indigo loss (if the jeans are very dirty, you can use a small amount of detergent).
3. Gently scrub the jeans and let them soak for about an hour.
4. Remove the jeans from the tub and rinse with water to remove any leftover dirt, dye or detergent. Ring out any excess water, and finally hang to dry.
Stretching and Shrinkage
Since raw denim jeans are unwashed, they’re not preshrunk. If you’ve had raw denim before, you’ll know it’s inherently tricky to predict your long-term fit.
After the first wash, they will shrink and feel tight; they will soon stretch back out to normal with wear.
With our range of Naked & Famous denim, we recommend to go up one size and allow for 3cm shrinkage of inlet length after the first wash.